Fifteen years ago I was studying theatre with the intention of becoming a professional performer. As so often happens, this led to a long and in my case quite successful career in hospitality. A true gypsy, I waited tables in 7 states before I was 26 years old. And to be quite honest, I loved it. I loved the people at my tables and behind the bar, the people delivering the supplies and the people cleaning up after the doors were locked. And I always really loved the kitchen staff.
My early years in restaurants were toned-down versions of Bourdain's stories in Kitchen Confidential. The back of the house guys (and occasional women) that I knew were pirates; the most interesting people you would meet with the craziest stories and backgrounds. Sometimes the stories were true and sometimes they weren't, but it didn't matter, because they held their own and did a damn good job. Some of my favorite restaurant memories are of delicately caring for some high brow celebrity in the dining room, and then walking through the kitchen doors to find fires, fights, blood, and general mayhem that the guests never knew about. It was all part of an average night and it was thrilling.
But in addition to having an absolute blast and learning insults in 8 languages, I managed to learn a lot about food. Daily lessons when I was a server, and later working one-on-one with chefs on menus when I was a manager are what led me to have the appreciation that I have for that world today. There are real skills back in those kitchens and those were some of the hardest working people I've ever known in my life. Some of the people I've worked with I am proud to say have gone really far and I love following their successes. Restaurants have taken people who could never belong or want to belong in other industries and has made them stars. Especially over the last few years as the 'foodie' trend has taken off and Middle America families are glued to the Food Network and Bravo instead of the Big Three. It's comforting to believe that there's a place for everyone and a person for every place, and I've seen more misfits and rebels find their true homes and families whilst dancing behind the line. Because there's pride there, and there should be; it's not an easy life.
Last night, in a loft curiously similar to one that I inhabited in Atlanta a lifetime ago, I attended, along with a new friend, a truly lovely event hosted by The Dallas Wine Chick, Ms. Melanie Ofenloch. It was such a treat to meet her and other food, wine, and art devotees in my new city, as well as some of the residents of the beautiful Mockingbird Station Lofts. The talented artists showing their work were Michael Cross and the lovely Samantha McCurdy, who I discovered was also a new transplant to Dallas, and a fellow Pennsylvanian. The synchronicity that I felt throughout the evening was slightly overwhelming but welcome.
The catering was provided by Cafe Momentum, an organization that provides culinary training for at-risk Dallas youth, similar to a group started by the Jamie Oliver Foundation on the other side of the pond. This was the first time that I heard about this local non-profit and I'm enamored. They train these youth in all aspects of the restaurant business and bring in guest chefs to teach, mentor, and use as references for future employment. The food at this event was impressive and the service was professional, and it was so special for me to later learn the background of the people providing it all.
To bring new people into a profession that is so close to my heart excites me, but to know that the people being brought into it are people who may have been slightly off-course for a little while and are finding their way home- that is truly inspiring. Thanks to the beyond hospitable world of food, wine, and culture that I'm just starting to discover here in Dallas, I can relate.
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