Thursday, February 16, 2012

Gourmand.


"There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.” 
~ Robert Louis Stevenson

Moving to a new city, region, or even neighborhood is overwhelming for many reasons and of course most of it is logistical. But I knew that one way to feel at home was to immediately get my taste buds on the pulse of the food scene in Dallas the way I had in New York, and that has become a personal mission since arriving. I have been a Texan for twelve weeks, during six of which I was not actually in Texas, so I'm doing the best that I can. Although I've rarely ventured outside of Uptown, and I have plenty still on my 'to do' list, I have already found some shining stars.

Favorite Food Experience

Private Social: By far this is the best restaurant I have been to in Dallas. The food is inventive yet comfortable, the service is perfect but not stuffy, and the decor is elegant yet fun. We had the most wonderful Saturday night dinner here and I can't wait to go back. Chef Tiffany Derry (Top Chef) leads guests through her kitchen, welcoming each warmly and inviting them to take photos. I know this because we were lucky enough to get a table right next to the window into the kitchen, and it was a joy to watch. Every staff member was warm and beyond hospitable, and a lot of fun to talk to. Favorite foods sampled included the Kumamoto oysters (a special for Valentine's Day, but I hope they will stay on the menu), The Top Chef Pork Buns (rivaling David Chang's in my memory), and Pastrami Cured Hiramasa. I let the server (shout out to Justin) choose our wine and cocktails and wasn't disappointed.

Notable Neighborhood Gems in West Village:

These places get bonus points because I can walk to them- a luxury in my new city.

For Bar & Atmosphere:

 Overview: If I want a swanky martini lounge (and I often do), nobody tops what Manhattan does in that department. What I've enjoyed in Texas thus far are laid back places like these: 

Katy Trail Ice House - There is no place like this in New York. (Except maybe Astoria Beer Garden, but this place is better.) I'm told it's typical of Austin, which makes me want to take the drive down there as soon as possible. Sit outside at picnic tables right off of the Katy Trail, under trees and twinkling lights, order from the list of 50 beers on tap (quite a few of them rare locals) and listen to great music. The crowd is unpretentious young professionals, and dogs are welcome. FTW.

The Union Bear - This place is pure Brooklyn. That's a good thing. We went opening night and I felt right at home. It rocked an atmosphere of a gastropub with the cuisine of my beloved gourmet food trucks (I miss you Rickshaw Dumplings!) Like the KTIH, the service and crowd are unpretentious and fun. I sincerely hope this is a new trend in Dallas, a city that is getting far too much press for it's "Real Housewives" and "Most Eligible" scene.

Cru Wine Bar in West Village- Rumor has it that "nobody goes there anymore." But they should. And here's why: the atmosphere is intimate, elegant and romantic, the wine list is impressive, the food is great and meant for sharing, and the service is delightful. It reminded me of some of my favorite Manhattan wine bars. Maybe the Dallas scene-sters have moved on but I loved it and plan to return often.

For Food:

The Fish - The sushi is above passable and at times quite creative, the service is friendly and good, the bar is above par, the decor is beautiful, and I can walk to it from my house. But they did something wrong- the layout of the restaurant doesn't work. It's not cozy or inviting and not quite sexy either. Like a lot of places in Texas, it's just too open and exposed. Of course for a town of people who love to be seen, maybe that's what they were going for.

Baboush- Simply adorable. The menu was authentic, the service and food were outstanding, the presentation was perfect. It's small and intimate but, like The Fish, very exposed because of a big window wall facing the street. A lower ceiling and more cushy couches around small tables meant for sharing plates would make this place perfect. I want to bring a big group of friends, order everything on the menu, and end the night with mint tea and hookah.

Mi Cocina - This is where I had my first Tex-Mex meal in Dallas. The sexy bar area is hopping at night and the tables are full for lunch and dinner. I am not an expert in this cuisine yet but I've enjoyed every bite and sip here thus far. And Taco Diner - A more casual version of Mi Cocina right across the street. I want to give everyone who works here a hug. Fun and energetic atmosphere, great margaritas, exposed kitchen, friendly waitstaff, and good food. My 3-year old loves the quesadillas and the staff loves her.

Crimson Asian Cuisine- It's amazing that it made it on to my list as it's BYOB. But I checked it out for lunch and was pleasantly surprised with the pho, which I am thrilled to find a block away from my house. Everyone dining there looks like they know they're in on the secret- the food is great.


This place gets it's own paragraph because it was thoroughly frustrating. Having passed many happy hours at Del Frisco's in Manhattan (as it was one elevator ride from my office), I was expecting at least some of the old-world elegance. Instead I got a sports bar that happened to serve good steaks and comfort food (both easy to find in Texas) and have wine racks for walls, as if that was to give it class. The decor was a mesh of contemporary and classic, but not in a good way. It was like a Broadway show with too many producers who all wanted a different story (see: the first version of Spiderman: Turn Off the Dark) and just agreed to disagree. Of course this is perfect for the group of friends who can't all agree on one type of restaurant (the not-so-secret to success outside of the Five Boroughs). The food and wine list were good of course, and yes- I understand it's supposed to be less formal as the 'grille' concept. But it did not work for me and I was as much distracted by this mishmash of concepts as at the difference between the classy Mad Men types seen at my NY haunt and this 'Look At My Striped Shirt' and 5-inch heels 30K millionaire Uptown crowd. It made my stomach turn and the "Cheesesteak Eggrolls" (as a native Pennsylvanian, these hurt my heart a little) harder to digest.

The "Club Deuce Award" Nomination

For places that you gravitate towards after a night of drinking elsewhere, which I've named after the bar on South Beach that I often 'ended up at' in my early 20's:

The Loon - The drinks are really strong, the music is really loud, the decor is non-existent, and it's located in a shopping strip in a big lit parking lot. And yet, everyone flocks to it. Supposedly the food is good but because of the tendency to end up rather than start there, I can't give this an accurate review yet. And I don't think I want to. Because the important part is, everyone is having a great time, which is exactly what you want in a neighborhood dive.

Digestif

Generally the same qualities I miss in people, I miss in restaurants: edgy, adventurous, and authentic. I want the people I spend time with, and the places I spend time at, to be smarter than me, to teach me something new, to expand my proverbial horizons. I'm frequently told that I should leave the Uptown neighborhood (see: Del Frisco's Grille paragraph) to find more of what I'm looking for. I will. Thankfully, there are so many more restaurants to try here, and that excites me. Hopefully once more of life's chaos subsides (fingers crossed) and the weather warms (guaranteed), I will experience and re-experience more of what this cosmopolitan southern city has to offer its gourmand residents.

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” ~  James Michener

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