Friday, February 24, 2012

Momentum.

Fifteen years ago I was studying theatre with the intention of becoming a professional performer. As so often happens, this led to a long and in my case quite successful career in hospitality.  A true gypsy, I waited tables in 7 states before I was 26 years old. And to be quite honest, I loved it. I loved the people at my tables and behind the bar, the people delivering the supplies and the people cleaning up after the doors were locked. And I always really loved the kitchen staff. 

My early years in restaurants were toned-down versions of Bourdain's stories in Kitchen Confidential. The back of the house guys (and occasional women) that I knew were pirates; the most interesting people you would meet with the craziest stories and backgrounds. Sometimes the stories were true and sometimes they weren't, but it didn't matter, because they held their own and did a damn good job. Some of my favorite restaurant memories are of delicately caring for some high brow celebrity in the dining room, and then walking through the kitchen doors to find fires, fights, blood, and general mayhem that the guests never knew about. It was all part of an average night and it was thrilling.

But in addition to having an absolute blast and learning insults in 8 languages, I managed to learn a lot about food. Daily lessons when I was a server, and later working one-on-one with chefs on menus when I was a manager are what led me to have the appreciation that I have for that world today. There are real skills back in those kitchens and those were some of the hardest working people I've ever known in my life. Some of the people I've worked with I am proud to say have gone really far and I love following their successes. Restaurants have taken people who could never belong or want to belong in other industries and has made them stars. Especially over the last few years as the 'foodie' trend has taken off and Middle America families are glued to the Food Network and Bravo instead of the Big Three. It's comforting to believe that there's a place for everyone and a person for every place, and I've seen more misfits and rebels find their true homes and families whilst dancing behind the line. Because there's pride there, and there should be; it's not an easy life.


Last night, in a loft curiously similar to one that I inhabited in Atlanta a lifetime ago, I attended, along with a new friend, a truly lovely event hosted by The Dallas Wine Chick, Ms. Melanie Ofenloch. It was such a treat to meet her and other food, wine, and art devotees in my new city, as well as some of the residents of the beautiful Mockingbird Station Lofts. The talented artists showing their work were Michael Cross and the lovely Samantha McCurdy, who I discovered was also a new transplant to Dallas, and a fellow Pennsylvanian. The synchronicity that I felt throughout the evening was slightly overwhelming but welcome. 

The catering was provided by Cafe Momentum, an organization that provides culinary training for at-risk Dallas youth, similar to a group started by the Jamie Oliver Foundation on the other side of the pond. This was the first time that I heard about this local non-profit and I'm enamored. They train these youth in all aspects of the restaurant business and bring in guest chefs to teach, mentor, and use as references for future employment. The food at this event was impressive and the service was professional, and it was so special for me to later learn the background of the people providing it all.

To bring new people into a profession that is so close to my heart excites me, but to know that the people being brought into it are people who may have been slightly off-course for a little while and are finding their way home- that is truly inspiring. Thanks to the beyond hospitable world of food, wine, and culture that I'm just starting to discover here in Dallas, I can relate.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Oak.

photo borrowed from OakDallas.com
Uptown, I see your inventive menu, impeccable service, and warm ambiance at Private Social, and I raise you a chic multimedia interior, classy and diverse clientele, and a champagne bucket of elegance at Oak in the Design District.

Fittingly, the space feels like a gallery where an artist has decided to do an installation piece in the design of a pop-up restaurant. It feels temporary, which is very unique and, (please forgive my lack of eloquence here) really cool. We were in on a secret location, having a special one-night-only dinner, and as soon as the night was over, all of the set pieces would be whisked away to make room for the next exhibit. And to take the analogy a step further- the design and service are so much about you, the guest, that the space feels like the canvas and you are the art- a revolving group of people in and out of the door that the designers chose specifically for their purpose. There was no rowdy and anxious crowd building up at the reception stand; everyone was accommodated perfectly as they arrived and yet every table was full. There were no groups of giggly girls snapping phone photos of themselves in mini-dresses getting in the way of cocktail servers and ruining the mise-en-scรจne - it was all perfectly executed class, right down to every guest.

But the food and cocktails were art in their own rights. First ordering off of the Imbibe menu, I made an easy choice in the LOLita, an elixir of Hendricks Gin, St. Germaine Elderflower liqueur (thanks to dear friend and occasional barmaid Shannon, who introduced me to this last summer), English cucumber and bitters, just about every one of my favorite cocktail ingredients in one glass. My handsome companion chose The Mighty Oak, with Eagle Rare Bourbon, mint, ginger lemon, and soda, and then moved on to the Hamilton Dark & Stormy with Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, Gosling’s Ginger Beer, and lime. It was difficult to change drinks after our first round but we were determined to try more options from Abraham Bebell's cocktail menu. What a relief to see a list heavy on gin and whiskey! It is always a joy to go back to the classics after years of the overdone craft cocktails.

Our lovely server Z came by and answered all of our questions about the menu aptly, and patiently waited for our selections. I went with a bird-centric dinner with the foie gras torchon appetizer and roasted duck breast entree. My Texan turned to the sea and started with diver scallops before his main course of Mediterranean bronzino. I wanted to inelegantly scrape my first plate clean of the foie gras, candied kumquat and black pepper gastrique. It was that good. And the duck! I ordered it Chef's recommendation and received it cooked to pink perfection, served with puy lentil, crispy brussels sprouts and burgundy foie gras jus. It was heavenly. With our server's assistance I paired it with a glass of Louis Jadot Macon Chardonnay. The bronzino was a lighter dish but no less perfect. The server brought the charming Mr. Bebell to our table to create a new cocktail based on my fiance's tastes to pair with his dinner, another special touch to our evening. If only we could have tried more but we had reached our breaking point.

Not ready to leave, we moved to the bar to experience the space from another angle. Barkeeps in suspenders and dark rimmed glasses kept busy but never flustered, managing every sitting and standing patron with professionalism, energy, and ease. Instead of my usual single malt scotch dessert, I decided on the appropriately named Distinguished District Man with Johnny Walker Black Label, Cinzano Bianco, clover honey, and bitters, and enjoyed distinguished district conversation with men on both sides of the bar, an eclectic group light on Dallas natives. Suddenly realizing the toll of the generously poured liquor, we sadly called it a night but vowed to return soon.

Kudos to owners Tommy DeAlano and Richard Ellman, the Plan B designers, the previously mentioned Mr. Abraham Bebell, and Executive Chef Jason Maddy. I'm new to Dallas but your reputations preceded my experience at Oak. Thank you for a wonderful restaurant in my new home city.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Gourmand.


"There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.” 
~ Robert Louis Stevenson

Moving to a new city, region, or even neighborhood is overwhelming for many reasons and of course most of it is logistical. But I knew that one way to feel at home was to immediately get my taste buds on the pulse of the food scene in Dallas the way I had in New York, and that has become a personal mission since arriving. I have been a Texan for twelve weeks, during six of which I was not actually in Texas, so I'm doing the best that I can. Although I've rarely ventured outside of Uptown, and I have plenty still on my 'to do' list, I have already found some shining stars.

Favorite Food Experience

Private Social: By far this is the best restaurant I have been to in Dallas. The food is inventive yet comfortable, the service is perfect but not stuffy, and the decor is elegant yet fun. We had the most wonderful Saturday night dinner here and I can't wait to go back. Chef Tiffany Derry (Top Chef) leads guests through her kitchen, welcoming each warmly and inviting them to take photos. I know this because we were lucky enough to get a table right next to the window into the kitchen, and it was a joy to watch. Every staff member was warm and beyond hospitable, and a lot of fun to talk to. Favorite foods sampled included the Kumamoto oysters (a special for Valentine's Day, but I hope they will stay on the menu), The Top Chef Pork Buns (rivaling David Chang's in my memory), and Pastrami Cured Hiramasa. I let the server (shout out to Justin) choose our wine and cocktails and wasn't disappointed.

Notable Neighborhood Gems in West Village:

These places get bonus points because I can walk to them- a luxury in my new city.

For Bar & Atmosphere:

 Overview: If I want a swanky martini lounge (and I often do), nobody tops what Manhattan does in that department. What I've enjoyed in Texas thus far are laid back places like these: 

Katy Trail Ice House - There is no place like this in New York. (Except maybe Astoria Beer Garden, but this place is better.) I'm told it's typical of Austin, which makes me want to take the drive down there as soon as possible. Sit outside at picnic tables right off of the Katy Trail, under trees and twinkling lights, order from the list of 50 beers on tap (quite a few of them rare locals) and listen to great music. The crowd is unpretentious young professionals, and dogs are welcome. FTW.

The Union Bear - This place is pure Brooklyn. That's a good thing. We went opening night and I felt right at home. It rocked an atmosphere of a gastropub with the cuisine of my beloved gourmet food trucks (I miss you Rickshaw Dumplings!) Like the KTIH, the service and crowd are unpretentious and fun. I sincerely hope this is a new trend in Dallas, a city that is getting far too much press for it's "Real Housewives" and "Most Eligible" scene.

Cru Wine Bar in West Village- Rumor has it that "nobody goes there anymore." But they should. And here's why: the atmosphere is intimate, elegant and romantic, the wine list is impressive, the food is great and meant for sharing, and the service is delightful. It reminded me of some of my favorite Manhattan wine bars. Maybe the Dallas scene-sters have moved on but I loved it and plan to return often.

For Food:

The Fish - The sushi is above passable and at times quite creative, the service is friendly and good, the bar is above par, the decor is beautiful, and I can walk to it from my house. But they did something wrong- the layout of the restaurant doesn't work. It's not cozy or inviting and not quite sexy either. Like a lot of places in Texas, it's just too open and exposed. Of course for a town of people who love to be seen, maybe that's what they were going for.

Baboush- Simply adorable. The menu was authentic, the service and food were outstanding, the presentation was perfect. It's small and intimate but, like The Fish, very exposed because of a big window wall facing the street. A lower ceiling and more cushy couches around small tables meant for sharing plates would make this place perfect. I want to bring a big group of friends, order everything on the menu, and end the night with mint tea and hookah.

Mi Cocina - This is where I had my first Tex-Mex meal in Dallas. The sexy bar area is hopping at night and the tables are full for lunch and dinner. I am not an expert in this cuisine yet but I've enjoyed every bite and sip here thus far. And Taco Diner - A more casual version of Mi Cocina right across the street. I want to give everyone who works here a hug. Fun and energetic atmosphere, great margaritas, exposed kitchen, friendly waitstaff, and good food. My 3-year old loves the quesadillas and the staff loves her.

Crimson Asian Cuisine- It's amazing that it made it on to my list as it's BYOB. But I checked it out for lunch and was pleasantly surprised with the pho, which I am thrilled to find a block away from my house. Everyone dining there looks like they know they're in on the secret- the food is great.


This place gets it's own paragraph because it was thoroughly frustrating. Having passed many happy hours at Del Frisco's in Manhattan (as it was one elevator ride from my office), I was expecting at least some of the old-world elegance. Instead I got a sports bar that happened to serve good steaks and comfort food (both easy to find in Texas) and have wine racks for walls, as if that was to give it class. The decor was a mesh of contemporary and classic, but not in a good way. It was like a Broadway show with too many producers who all wanted a different story (see: the first version of Spiderman: Turn Off the Dark) and just agreed to disagree. Of course this is perfect for the group of friends who can't all agree on one type of restaurant (the not-so-secret to success outside of the Five Boroughs). The food and wine list were good of course, and yes- I understand it's supposed to be less formal as the 'grille' concept. But it did not work for me and I was as much distracted by this mishmash of concepts as at the difference between the classy Mad Men types seen at my NY haunt and this 'Look At My Striped Shirt' and 5-inch heels 30K millionaire Uptown crowd. It made my stomach turn and the "Cheesesteak Eggrolls" (as a native Pennsylvanian, these hurt my heart a little) harder to digest.

The "Club Deuce Award" Nomination

For places that you gravitate towards after a night of drinking elsewhere, which I've named after the bar on South Beach that I often 'ended up at' in my early 20's:

The Loon - The drinks are really strong, the music is really loud, the decor is non-existent, and it's located in a shopping strip in a big lit parking lot. And yet, everyone flocks to it. Supposedly the food is good but because of the tendency to end up rather than start there, I can't give this an accurate review yet. And I don't think I want to. Because the important part is, everyone is having a great time, which is exactly what you want in a neighborhood dive.

Digestif

Generally the same qualities I miss in people, I miss in restaurants: edgy, adventurous, and authentic. I want the people I spend time with, and the places I spend time at, to be smarter than me, to teach me something new, to expand my proverbial horizons. I'm frequently told that I should leave the Uptown neighborhood (see: Del Frisco's Grille paragraph) to find more of what I'm looking for. I will. Thankfully, there are so many more restaurants to try here, and that excites me. Hopefully once more of life's chaos subsides (fingers crossed) and the weather warms (guaranteed), I will experience and re-experience more of what this cosmopolitan southern city has to offer its gourmand residents.

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” ~  James Michener